How do I plunge a toilet the right way?

A flange plunger, sometimes called a beehive plunger. Korky describes a toilet plunger (flange or beehive style) as one designed to seal inside a round or elongated toilet bowl outlet. Oatey says the same thing another way: a flange plunger is ideal for toilets because it creates a better seal. Korky calls using a sink plunger instead "a common mistake," since the flanged toilet plunger "is designed to seal inside the bowl."

### Why not use the sink plunger?

Korky's guidance is that a cup plunger can't create a good seal in a curved toilet bowl. Without that seal you get too little pressure to clear the clog, and you mostly splash dirty water around. Korky also raises the sanitation problem of putting the kitchen sink plunger in a toilet, and says a flange plunger can't seal on a flat sink surface either. Korky adds that a toilet plunger head is larger because it has to seal inside a wider, curved drain, and that ideally you keep both a sink plunger and a toilet plunger on hand, since each is built for a specific type of clog. Keep one of each and don't swap them.

Oatey's tool list is short: a flange plunger, disposable rubber gloves, a bucket for overflow or excess water, old towels or rags, and optional protective eyewear for splashes.

1. 1Shut off the water if the bowl is rising. Turn the supply valve near the base of the toilet clockwise. Put towels or newspaper on the floor and wear rubber gloves.
2. 2Check the water level. If the bowl is at or near the rim, dip out enough water that it won't spill when you insert the plunger. Oatey advises keeping some water in the bowl, because the extra pressure from a fuller bowl can help push the blockage through. If the bowl is nearly empty, add a little so the plunger head can fill.
3. 3Insert the plunger at a 45-degree angle. Korky says this lets the head fill with water and helps avoid splashing, especially in a nearly full bowl.
4. 4Seat it. Tilt the plunger upright so the head sits centered over the outlet hole. Korky says that without a proper seal the plunging action won't be effective.
5. 5Push and pull without breaking the seal. Start with gentle, slow pulses so the water doesn't splash.
6. 6Pause and look. If the water level drops but drains slowly, the clog may still be partly in the trapway, so repeat. Once it drains at the speed of a normal flush, flush to confirm.

### Does the push or the pull do the work?

The pull. Korky says the force comes from the pull, not the push, because the pull creates suction that helps dislodge the clog from the trapway. Oatey's version is to push down gently to create a seal, then pull up sharply and repeat. The two brands differ a bit on tempo. Start slow, then get firmer once the seal holds.

### What do you do after it clears?

Oatey says that if the toilet completes a full flush, flush again to get the waste through the rest of the system so it doesn't stop somewhere else in the pipe. It also says to avoid flushing repeatedly while the bowl is still blocked, because that can make the backup worse. That's the fix.

Give it several rounds, checking between each. Korky says that with its own Beehive Max plunger, a clog should clear in one or two plunges, though stubborn ones take more. Oatey puts a time limit on the whole effort: if multiple flushes, plunging or other DIY methods don't work after 20 to 30 minutes, the clog might be deep in the pipes or caused by a solid object.

Stop and change plans if any of these happen:

• The water rises after you flush. Korky says that if the bowl doesn't drain and the water begins to rise quickly, turn off the toilet's supply valve so it doesn't overflow, then repeat the seal-and-pulse steps. Our page on what to do when a toilet is overflowing covers the emergency side.
• You suspect an object. Phones, toys and similar items sometimes fall in. Korky's advice is to wear gloves and remove the object by hand if you can. Plunging an object deeper is how a small problem turns into a pull-the-toilet problem.
• You smell sewer gas. Korky says to open a window and call a plumber, because pipe or sewer issues can be dangerous.
• Other drains gurgle or back up too. Oatey says persistent backups or gurgling sounds suggest it's time to call a plumber. Our page on why a toilet gurgles explains how to tell a vent problem from a main line problem.

A toilet auger is the next tool. It's a short hand-cranked cable with a guard for the porcelain, and our page on the difference between a toilet auger and a drain snake explains why a drain snake isn't the right substitute. Oatey's auger steps are to feed the cable in carefully, turn the handle clockwise while pushing gently, feel for resistance, work the clog, and retract slowly.

Skip the chemicals. Oatey says its technical team doesn't recommend drain cleaners in a toilet because harsh chemicals can damage the finish. It also advises against bleach, which it says can compromise the toilet, for example by melting the wax seal.

A toilet that clogs over and over has a cause, and plunging only treats the symptom. Our page on why a toilet keeps clogging walks through the usual suspects. Oatey's prevention list is short: use less toilet paper, keep paper towels, sanitary products and wipes (even "flushable" ones) out of the toilet, and clean the water jets around the rim.

You don't need a permit to plunge. Phoenix's amended 2024 building code, Section 105.2, lists work that is exempt from a permit, and item 2 under plumbing includes the clearing of stoppages, provided the work doesn't require replacing or rearranging valves, pipes or fixtures. Plunging and augering both qualify.

If your home is on a septic system instead of city sewer, Oatey's advice is to use products that won't harm the septic system, and our page on what not to flush with a septic system has the list.

Call a licensed plumber when the plunger and auger both fail, when more than one drain is acting up, or when water is coming up with nowhere to go. HQ Plumbing & Air offers 24/7 emergency service and is licensed and insured.