A plumber confirms and pinpoints the leak, then picks one of four fixes. A spot repair opens the slab over the break. A reroute abandons the buried pipe and runs new PEX or copper through the walls or attic. Epoxy lining seals the pipe from inside. A repipe replaces the whole system.
What happens before any repair starts?
Nobody should cut concrete on a guess, so the first visit is about proof and precision.
Confirming the leak. The simplest test is your water meter. The EPA suggests checking the meter before and after a two-hour stretch when nobody uses water. If the dial moves, water is going somewhere. Our page on how to do a water meter leak test walks through it, and a high water bill with no visible leak is often the first clue that sends people to the meter.
Pinpointing it. Once the leak is confirmed, a plumber uses listening gear, thermal imaging or tracer gas to find the exact spot without opening anything. Our guide on how plumbers find a hidden or slab leak explains each tool, and signs of a slab leak in Arizona covers what tips you off in the first place. If you're still asking why it happened, why slab leaks are common in Arizona covers the local causes.
Why precision matters. The location decides which repair even makes sense. A leak pinned to one spot on a straight, easy-to-reach run is a very different job from one on a pipe that has been failing for years, or one that sits under a kitchen island. Ask the plumber to show you what the detection found before anyone quotes a fix.
What are the four ways to fix a slab leak?
### Spot repair (break the slab)
A spot repair is the "break the slab" option. The crew cuts the concrete right over the leak, replaces the failed section of pipe, then patches the concrete and the flooring on top. It fits one isolated failure in pipe that is otherwise in good shape.
Today's Homeowner says a spot repair suits minor leaks in pipes that are otherwise in good condition. The catch is what it doesn't fix: a patch on one spot does nothing for the rest of the pipe. If the pipe is old or in poor condition, Today's Homeowner warns that repairing only one section can lead to future leaks elsewhere. You also get floor demolition and restoration, and you'll want to know who handles that before work starts.
### Reroute (bypass the buried pipe)
A reroute skips the buried pipe entirely. The plumber shuts off the damaged line, leaves it in the slab, and runs a new line through the walls or attic to feed the same fixtures. New PEX or copper above the slab isn't sitting in soil or concrete, so it never has to be found and dug up again.
A reroute suits leaks under spots that are hard to reach or costly to restore, like tile or cabinets. The trade-off is that walls or ceilings get opened for the new run, and the upfront job is bigger than a spot repair. Today's Homeowner says rerouting is a good alternative when the pipe is old or in poor condition, because it avoids breaking the slab and can provide easier access for future maintenance. In most homes, a reroute means patching drywall instead of breaking up floors.
### Epoxy lining (seal it from the inside)
Lining, sometimes called pipelining, pushes a liner or epoxy coating through the existing pipe and cures it in place. Only the liner is new, and the old pipe stays in the slab. It can suit several worn sections when access is tough and you want the floors left alone.
It has limits. Today's Homeowner describes it as an epoxy liner inside the leaking pipe, "creating a new pipe within a pipe." Whether a given pipe is a good candidate depends on its condition, so ask the plumber to explain why it fits yours. Since these lines carry water you drink and cook with, ask any contractor offering lining to show that the material is approved for drinking water before you agree.
### Full repipe (replace the system)
A repipe replaces the supply lines with new PEX or copper, routed above the slab so they aren't buried. Today's Homeowner says that for older homes with deteriorating plumbing, a slab leak can indicate widespread issues. It's the answer when leaks keep coming back. If you've had a second or third leak in a few years, or your copper is old and worn, patching turns into a cycle of detect, cut, patch and repeat. We cover that decision in repair or repipe when copper keeps getting pinhole leaks. For what drives the price, see what a whole-house repipe costs and PEX versus copper, and how long a repipe takes sets expectations for the timeline.
Which repair fits your situation?
Two trenchless methods may come up in the same conversation. Today's Homeowner lists pipe lining and pipe bursting, which pulls a new pipe through the current one and breaks it to make room, and says both save you from paying for damage to the ground above the pipe. Ask whether either one fits your leak.
| Your situation | Usual fit |
|---|---|
| One leak, pipe otherwise healthy, easy access | Spot repair |
| Leak under tile or cabinets, or a line that keeps failing | Reroute |
| Several worn sections, floors you want to keep, pipe still clear | Lining |
| Repeat leaks, older copper, more than one failed line | Repipe |
That's a starting point, not a verdict. A good plumber shows you the leak location and the condition of the pipe before recommending anything.
Can it be fixed without tearing up the floor? Often, yes, but not always. A reroute leaves the slab alone because the new line goes overhead. Lining works from inside the pipe. A spot repair is the one that breaks the floor. If keeping your flooring matters, say so on the first call and ask which options the leak location allows. Here's the play: get the leak located first, then choose the repair.
What to do while you wait. If water is actively running, shut off the water at the main so the leak stops feeding. Keep an eye on the meter, and if you see wet flooring, warm floor spots or hear running water, tell the plumber. A slab leak rarely gets better on its own, and water sitting under a house doesn't improve anything.
Who pays, and who owns the line?
In Phoenix, the water meter is the dividing line. The city says issues from the street to the meter are its responsibility, and issues after the meter belong to the homeowner. A slab leak inside your house is on your side of that line.
Whether homeowners insurance helps depends on your policy. The NAIC says homeowners policies cover damage from a "sudden and accidental" discharge, and the Insurance Information Institute adds that a policy "will not cover damage due to lack of maintenance." We cover the details in whether homeowners insurance covers a slab leak. Take photos of any damage before repairs start, and ask your agent what your policy says about access and tear-out.
What should you ask before you agree to a repair?
Five questions keep the job honest:
- 1Can you show me where the leak is and what the detection found?
- 2Why is this repair better than the other three for my house?
- 3Does the work need a permit, and who handles it?
- 4Which walls or floors get opened, and who restores them?
- 5What's the price in writing before work starts?
HQ gives upfront pricing and free estimates, and we offer 24/7 emergency service if water is running right now.
For the wider question of when pipe gets bypassed, see when plumbing needs to be rerouted.