What should a home buyer know about plumbing before closing?

A standard inspection is a snapshot of what a person could see and reach on inspection day. The inspection standards from InterNACHI define it as "a non-invasive, visual examination of the accessible areas of a residential property." They also say it "will not identify concealed or latent defects." The Arizona Department of Real Estate's Buyer Advisory tells buyers to "pay attention to the scope of the inspection and any portions of the property excluded from the inspection."

For plumbing, the InterNACHI standard has the inspector look at these items:

• the main water shut-off valve
• the water heater, including its temperature and pressure relief valve
• the interior water supply, by running the water at fixtures and faucets
• every toilet, by flushing it
• sinks, tubs and showers, for drainage
• the drain, waste and vent system

The same standard lists what the inspector is not required to do. That list matters more than most buyers realize:

• measure the age, life expectancy or adequacy of the water heater
• determine the exact flow rate, volume or pressure of the water supply
• determine water quality
• inspect water softeners or filtering systems
• test shower pans or tub and shower surrounds for leakage
• operate any valve
• determine whether there are enough cleanouts to clean the drains
• open sealed plumbing access panels

Now the practical part. If any item on that list matters to you, ask about it in writing before the inspection period ends. A softener, a shower that may leak, or a water heater of unknown age are all things a standard report may not address. Our page on what a plumbing inspection covers when buying goes line by line through the same standard.

Most sellers in Arizona hand over a Seller's Property Disclosure Statement, which the state's Buyer Advisory describes as a document that "poses a variety of questions for the seller to answer about the property and its condition." Read the plumbing answers slowly. Then use them as a to-do list.

Here is how the Buyer Advisory frames it:

• The real estate broker is not responsible for verifying the accuracy of the statement. The buyer should review it and verify the statements of concern.
• A seller's disclosure obligation remains even if the buyer and seller agree that no statement will be provided.
• Repairs and remodeling deserve a closer look. The advisory tells buyers to request copies of permits, invoices or other documentation about work the seller had done, or to have an expert evaluate it.
• Moisture is a flag. If reports or disclosures show past or present moisture, standing water, visible water stains or water intrusion, the advisory says an indoor air quality test may be worth considering for mold.

That last point ties plumbing to health. A ceiling stain a seller calls old may be an old leak that was fixed, or a slow one that never was. Ask which, and ask for the paperwork.

The Arizona Department of Real Estate's own buyer checklist adds a short walk-through list. It says to "confirm that the appliances work," naming the water heater, and to "confirm that the water runs." It also tells buyers to read the disclosure and the purchase contract to find any deadlines for challenging the seller's disclosure or having your own inspections done. Put those dates on your calendar the day you sign.

### Should you waive the inspection contingency?

The Buyer Advisory warns that waiving contingencies can put a buyer "at risk of losing their Earnest Money or incurring monetary damages" if the buyer later decides not to buy. It suggests weighing the risks and consulting independent legal counsel first. Plumbing is one of the reasons. Pipes are behind walls and under slabs, and the time to find a problem is before a waiver, not after.

Some items are not fully settled by a general inspection. Here are the ones we would put on a buyer's list.

### What kind of pipe is in the house?

Ask what the supply piping is made of and what year the house was built. The main one to screen for is polybutylene, a gray plastic pipe. InterNACHI says it was made from 1978 to mid-1995 and installed in up to 10 million homes in the United States. It also says home inspectors are not required to note it. The same page says no regulations require replacing it. If your house falls in that date range, read our pages on polybutylene pipes and whether to replace them, getting a mortgage on a house with polybutylene and insuring a home with polybutylene before your deadline. Our guide to judging the age and condition of home plumbing helps with other materials.

### Is the sewer connection real, and what is under the ground?

The Buyer Advisory says that even if the listing or the seller's statement indicates the property is on city sewer, "a plumber, home inspector, or other professional should verify it." If the home is not on a public sewer, it is probably on a septic or other on-site system. The advisory says a qualified inspector must inspect any such facility within six months before transfer of ownership, and it points buyers to their county or the Arizona Department of Environmental Quality for the current rules. Our pages on septic versus city sewer in Phoenix and septic inspection when buying in Arizona cover that path.

For a home on city sewer, the underground line is the part a visual inspection cannot see. The City of Phoenix says home or property owners are responsible for cleaning and maintaining the sewer line that runs from the house to the connection with the city sewer main in the street or alley. That is a good reason to read our page on whether to get a sewer scope before buying. A scope is a camera run through the line. It shows what the inspector could not.

### How old is the water heater?

The inspection standard does not require the inspector to measure the age or life expectancy of the water heater. So find the age yourself. The serial number usually tells you, and our page on reading a water heater serial number shows how. The inspection standard does have the inspector look at the temperature and pressure relief valve, but you can also look at the floor around the tank for rust or water marks. If the heater is old, treat it as a line item to plan for, not a reason to panic. It still matters, since a leaking tank can do real damage.

### Is the water pressure safe for the pipes?

Standard inspections do not determine the exact water pressure. The plumbing code (IPC 604.8) requires a pressure reducing valve where static pressure is above 80 psi, set to 80 psi or less. The City of Phoenix says pressure between 40 and 100 psi is acceptable and pressure above 120 psi requires action by the owner, but its page also says a regulator on the customer's side of the meter should keep pressure from exceeding 80 psi. Treat 80 psi as the limit inside the house. See whether you need a pressure reducing valve. A buyer can ask whether the house has a regulator and have the pressure read with a gauge. Our page on normal home water pressure explains the numbers.

### Does the home warranty change any of this?

Maybe less than you think. The Buyer Advisory describes a home warranty as a service contract that typically covers repair or replacement of appliances and major systems, including plumbing, that fail from normal usage and age. It also says pre-existing conditions are generally not covered, and it tells buyers to read the contract for coverage, limits and exclusions. See our page on whether a home warranty covers plumbing.

The final walk-through is your last look before closing. Its job is to confirm that nothing has changed since the inspection and that agreed repairs were done. Here is the routine we suggest.

1. 1Run every faucet, hot and cold. Let each one run for a minute. Watch for weak flow, sputtering, or water that stays cloudy.
2. 2Run two fixtures at once. The inspection standard has the inspector look for supply problems by viewing flow at two fixtures operated at the same time, so do the same in a bathroom.
3. 3Flush every toilet twice. Check that each one refills and stops. A tank that keeps running is a leak. Our page on toilets that run shows the EPA dye test, which uses a few drops of food coloring in the tank and 10 minutes.
4. 4Fill and drain each sink, tub and shower. Slow drains and gurgles are worth writing down.
5. 5Look under every sink. Feel the supply lines and traps with a dry hand. Any dampness is a leak.
6. 6Check the water heater. Confirm it makes hot water, and check the area around it for water. The state checklist says to confirm that the water heater works.
7. 7Find the main shut-off and try it, if the seller allows. You want to know where it is and that it turns. Our page on testing your main shut-off valve shows how.
8. 8Check walls and ceilings for new stains. Compare with your inspection photos.
9. 9Confirm agreed repairs are finished. Ask for the invoices, and for permit paperwork when a permit was needed.

If something fails, tell your agent right away, before you sign. Once you close, the plumbing is yours.

### What if the utilities are off?

Sometimes the water is off at a vacant house. Ask to have it turned on for the walk-through. If it cannot be, say so to your agent, because a plumbing check with no water is not much of a check.

Call one when the report or disclosure names pipe material, a sewer concern, an aging water heater or a leak, and you want a clear answer before your deadlines run out. We can give you a free estimate and an upfront price for the work before it starts. HQ Plumbing & Air is licensed and insured, and we offer 24/7 emergency service, so a leak in your first week in the house does not have to wait. Start with our residential plumbing services.

After you move in, our first-time homeowner plumbing guide is a good next read. If you are wondering about coverage for the plumbing you just bought, see whether homeowners insurance covers plumbing repairs.