Where can I put a water softener far from the water main?

This is the most common layout. The softener goes in the garage or utility space, and a new supply and return line carries water there and back to the house's distribution piping.

A whole-house softener has to sit downstream of the main shutoff and upstream of every branch you want softened. When the main is on the far side, that means a longer run: a tee off the main, a supply line to the softener, and a return line that feeds the house. The Pentair Fleck manual, which covers one of the most common residential valves, gives the ground rules that apply no matter the brand: "Always provide for the installation of a bypass valve if unit is not equipped with one," and "All plumbing should be done in accordance with local plumbing codes."

Three things decide whether this option works:

• A nearby drain. The Fleck manual says the softener "should be located close to a drain to prevent air breaks and back flow." The drain line also has limits: it should be at least 1/2 inch, and "backwash flow rates in excess of 7 gpm or length in excess of 20 feet require 3/4 inch drain line." A far-away garage corner with no floor drain is a problem.
• Power. The manual calls for "an uninterrupted alternating current supply," so you need an outlet at the spot you pick.
• Existing pipe condition. The manual warns that "condition of existing plumbing should be free from lime and iron buildup," and that heavily built-up piping "should be replaced." In older Phoenix homes with hard-water scale, that is worth checking before you tie in.

A longer run also means more pipe, more joints and more places for pressure to drop. Size the new line to match the main so you do not create a bottleneck. If you notice weak showers after a softener goes in, our page on whether a softener reduces water pressure explains how to tell a plumbing restriction from a fouled resin bed. The rule of thumb is simple: the shorter and straighter the run between the main, the softener and the house, the fewer problems you will chase later.

If you are not sure where the water enters or how the lines run, start with our guide on how to find where water pipes run.

If the main is on the outside wall and there is space beside it, an outdoor install avoids new piping. In Phoenix it also brings the weather into the decision. The Fleck manual states that "water temperature is not to exceed 110°F (43°C), and the unit cannot be subjected to freezing conditions." Water pressure also must not exceed 125 psi. Those are the numbers to hold up against your site.

• Heat. Summer air and sun are the concern, because a softener tank in direct sun and hot air can push the water inside it toward that 110 degree limit. Pick the shadiest wall, add a shade structure or an enclosure with ventilation, and keep the cold line short and out of direct sun.
• Freezing. Phoenix rarely freezes hard, but the manual says the unit cannot be subjected to freezing conditions at all. On a rare cold night, an unprotected outdoor tank and its lines are exposed. Insulate the pipes and consider a cover. Our page on whether pipes can freeze in Phoenix covers when it is a real risk.
• Drain, power and access. The same rules apply outside: a drain within reach, a protected outlet, and room to refill the salt.

An enclosure that shades the unit, drains properly and is easy to open for salt is often worth the extra work. If the only outdoor spot is a hot, south-facing wall, treat that as a reason to look at Option 1.

You do not have to soften every tap, and doing less can shrink the piping job. Penn State Extension notes that "the simple technology of softening makes it easy to bypass toilets and outdoor faucets," and that "you may desire to soften the hot water only." The Minnesota Department of Health says the same: "Toilets, hose bibs, basement sinks, and other cold water taps typically do not need to be connected to a softener. In many cases, people choose to soften only the hot water."

If the water heater is on the side of the house with room, a softener piped to the cold supply feeding the water heater protects the heater and every hot water fixture, showers and laundry included. Cold taps stay hard, which suits drinking water and the yard. It also means the softener treats fewer gallons, so a smaller unit can do the job. Penn State adds that softening systems "are adaptable for mixing softened and unsoftened water to produce a lower hardness level," so a partial setup is a normal, supported way to run one. In a Valley home that means you can keep the softener where it fits, feed it from the line nearest the water heater, and leave everything else alone. Our page on choosing the right softener size shows how to work out the grains you need.

One caution: softening the water heater's supply speeds up wear on its anode rod, so plan to check it more often. See whether salt-based softeners damage a water heater.

If there is truly no place for a softener, an exchange service is another route. A provider swaps a spent resin tank for a fresh one instead of regenerating on site, so nothing drains at your house. Scottsdale's 2014 salinity pilot rebated homes that switched to "a portable exchange service, where the spent resin tanks are removed and replaced by a service provider who more efficiently regenerates the resin at their central facility." Availability varies, so ask providers what they cover in your area. A salt-free conditioner is a different tool and does not remove hardness. See whether salt-free softeners work before choosing one.

Take this short list to your plumber or your own site walk:

1. 1Where is the main shutoff, and where does each branch start? A layout that softens everything must catch the whole house downstream.
2. 2Do you have 20 psi or more, and less than 125? The Fleck manual lists 20 pounds as the minimum for the valve to work well.
3. 3Where does the drain go? A floor drain, laundry standpipe or approved drain connection needs to be in reach.
4. 4Can the unit stay cool? Shade, ventilation and a short cold line matter in July.
5. 5Is there a bypass valve? You will want it for repairs and for any time you need hard water.

HQ Plumbing and Air is licensed and insured, and we give free estimates with upfront pricing. Walking the house to find the cleanest tie-in is the first thing we would do.

Whichever layout you choose, plan for a bypass so the softener can be isolated for service; where the bypass valve is and how to use it explains the types.