How do I maintain a water softener?

A home softener is an ion exchange unit. Resin beads inside the tank trap the calcium and magnesium that make water hard and trade them for sodium or potassium. The Minnesota Department of Health describes it this way: once the resin beads become full of calcium and magnesium, a highly concentrated salt or potassium solution removes the hardness from the beads. That cleaning step is called regeneration.

Those two facts tell you what to maintain. The resin needs to be regenerated on time, which means the salt supply and the controls have to work. And the parts that touch the salty brine, the brine tank, the valve and the float, need cleaning. The University of Nebraska-Lincoln puts the first part plainly: the softener must be kept regenerated to avoid hard water flowing into pipes and appliances. Everything else on this page supports that goal.

The salt level. Look in the brine tank once a month and top it up before it runs low. Minnesota's guidance is to make sure the softener is filled with sodium or potassium chloride following the manufacturer's recommendations. Do not guess. The salt type matters, and we cover that below.

The settings. Minnesota also says to make sure the softener is set to the hardness of your water supply, and warns that if the hardness is set too high the softener costs more to operate and wastes water. If you have not looked at the controller since it was installed, check that the hardness number matches a recent test.

The water itself. Run a finger over the inside of a glass or across a clean shower wall. A new chalky film, white spots on dishes or soap that stops lathering are the early signs of hard water getting through. Our page on testing whether a water softener is working shows how to confirm it.

The floor. Look for water or salt crust around the tank, hoses and drain line. A slow leak here wastes water and can stain flooring.

### Which salt should I use?

Use the type your manufacturer names. The University of Nebraska-Lincoln explains that softeners are designed to use specific types of salt, so it is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations on salt type. It describes three common forms:

• Compressed salt in pellets, nuggets or beads, which is what most softeners are designed for.
• Salt blocks, which should be used only in units designed for blocks. Nebraska warns that blocks made for livestock may contain additives incompatible with softener units.
• Rock salt, which can carry impurities. Nebraska says it is an option only if the manufacturer suggests it, and that only rock salt averaging less than 1 percent impurities should be used, because calcium or magnesium impurities can reduce regeneration and plug valves.

Some households switch to potassium chloride for health or environmental reasons. Nebraska notes that potassium chloride can cost more, adheres more strongly to the resin and may need to be used in larger amounts, and it recommends consulting a water treatment professional first. Our use potassium instead of salt in a softener page covers the tradeoffs, and can you use pellets in a Culligan softener is a brand-specific example of why the manual matters.

Clean the brine tank. Nebraska says the brine tank requires periodic checking and cleaning, and that how often depends on the type and amount of salt and the characteristics of your water. It advises inspecting the tank for scale buildup. If you find a hard crust or sludge on the bottom, shut off the unit's water supply as your manual directs, empty the tank and clean it out.

Clean the brine valve and float. Nebraska says the brine valve and float assembly, if used, should be cleaned and inspected at least once a year. A stuck float or a clogged valve is a common reason a softener stops using salt properly.

Check the backwash. Nebraska explains that adequate backwashing of the resin bed is important for efficient regeneration. On an automatic unit with adjustable backwash time, it says to set the time so the backwash is long enough to produce clear water in the drain. If your controller lets you view the cycle, this is worth watching once.

Have the water tested. Minnesota says regular testing of the water and maintenance of the softener is necessary to make sure the softener is working properly. Nebraska also recommends periodic re-testing after a treatment device is installed to evaluate its effectiveness.

### What problems can foul the resin?

Two common ones, according to Minnesota and Penn State.

• Sediment. If the water supply is cloudy, mud and clay can clog the resin. Minnesota says backwashing will typically solve this and that a sediment filter ahead of the softener could help.
• Iron. Penn State says red, oxidized iron, meaning iron that has been exposed to air or chlorine, will clog the resin, and that filtering before softening prevents oxidized iron from reaching the softener. Nebraska says excess iron above 5 ppm or hydrogen sulfide can reduce effectiveness, and that pre-softening equipment may be needed.

If the resin is already fouled, commercial cleaners exist. Minnesota and Penn State both tell readers to read the manufacturer's instructions before adding any chemicals to the unit. Nebraska advises consulting a water treatment professional about cleaning or replacing resin. Do not pour household chemicals into the brine tank on a guess.

### Does the type of softener change the routine?

A little. Penn State describes two main kinds. Timed models regenerate on a schedule whether the resin needs it or not, so they can waste more water and salt. Demand-control models regenerate after a set number of gallons or when a sensor says the resin needs it. Nebraska adds that some demand-initiated units have two softening tanks so that one can soften while the other regenerates. Kinetico's resource center explains the single-tank and dual-tank difference for its own products.

With a timed unit, check the schedule against your household's real use every year, since a change in family size changes the right setting. With a demand-control unit, keep an eye on salt use. Nebraska says if an automatic or demand-initiated unit appears to use more salt than expected or the water is not softened, you should have a service provider check the unit settings.

Start with the simple causes: an empty brine tank, a salt bridge or crust, a wrong hardness setting or a stuck float. If the basics check out, read why a water softener is not working. For a decision between fixing and replacing an old unit, ask a licensed plumber or water treatment dealer for a written diagnosis first.

If you are still deciding whether a softener suits your home, read do water softeners work with Arizona hard water.

HQ Plumbing & Air is licensed and insured, gives free estimates and upfront pricing, and answers 24/7.

When the unit is old or a repair keeps failing, see how long a water softener lasts and when to replace it.