To remove a toilet, shut off the supply valve, flush and sponge out the tank and bowl, and disconnect the supply line. Unbolt the tank if it is a two-piece, take the caps and nuts off the closet bolts, rock the bowl to break the wax seal, lift it straight up, and stuff a rag in the flange.
How do you remove a toilet, step by step?
Work in this order, and lift only after the wax seal is broken.
- 1Shut off the water. Oatey says to turn the shut-off valve behind or beside the toilet clockwise to stop the water.
- 2Drain the tank and bowl. Flush, then sponge out what is left. Kohler says to sponge out all remaining water from the tank, and Oatey says to use a sponge to remove any remaining water. A bucket under the valve catches drips.
- 3Disconnect the supply line. Loosen the nut on the water supply line with a wrench and pull it free.
- 4Cut the caulk, if there is any. If a caulk bead runs around the base, slice through it with a razor knife so the toilet is not glued to the floor.
- 5Take the tank off a two-piece toilet. Unscrew the bolts that hold the tank to the bowl and lift the tank off. It splits the weight, as the next section shows. A one-piece toilet has no tank to remove, so it comes up as a single heavy piece.
- 6Remove the bolt caps and nuts. Oatey says to remove the decorative bolt caps at the base, then unscrew the nuts on the closet bolts.
- 7Rock it and lift straight up. Oatey says to "Rock the toilet gently side-to-side to break the wax seal and lift it straight up." Set it on cardboard, a blanket or towels. Oatey says to put it on protective padding to avoid scratches. Expect a little water to spill from the trap.
- 8Plug the flange. Kohler's installation guide warns of a "Risk of hazardous gases" and says to temporarily place a rag in the closet flange if the new toilet is not going in right away. Use a rag big enough that it cannot fall down the pipe.
- 9Scrape the old wax. Oatey says to use a putty knife to scrape away all wax residue from the flange and from the toilet's outlet horn.
That's the removal. Everything after this point is inspection and reset.
### What tools and parts do you need?
Oatey's list is short: adjustable wrenches, a bucket and sponge, a mini hacksaw, a razor knife, disposable gloves and a plastic putty knife. For the reset you also want a replacement wax ring, new mounting bolts, a new water supply line and something to cover the floor. The mini hacksaw is for trimming new bolts and cutting one that will not let go.
How heavy is a toilet?
Heavier than it looks. Oatey warns "Toilets can be heavy. If possible, ask for help when lifting to prevent damage or injury." Your toilet's weight depends on its model. Get help rather than guessing what you can safely lift.
Taking the tank off first turns one big lift into two manageable ones. Kohler also warns that vitreous china can break or chip if handled carelessly, so set it down gently.
Can you reuse the wax ring?
No, a wax ring is a one-time seal, and a removed toilet always gets a new one. Oatey says "Never reuse a wax ring: Always replace it when removing a toilet." Kohler's guide says "If you break the watertight seal, you must install a new wax seal." Oatey also says to replace the closet bolts whenever you replace the wax ring, and Kohler's guide says to replace the old T-bolts with new 5/16 inch T-bolts.
### What comes after removal?
If you are setting the same toilet or a new one back down, Kohler's guide says to lay the toilet on a padded surface and firmly press a new wax seal around the outlet on the bottom. Take out the rag, then line up the toilet with the flange and bolts and lower it straight down. Kohler says "Do not lift or rock the bowl after placement," and to apply your full body weight around the toilet to set the seal. Tighten the nuts carefully and evenly. Kohler warns that overtightening can break the china.
Reconnect the supply line, open the valve slowly, and flush several times while you check the connections for leaks. Kohler adds that you should keep checking for leaks over the next several days. If you plan to caulk the base, see our page on caulking around the base of a toilet.
What should you check once the toilet is out?
Look at the flange before you set anything back. Oatey says to inspect it for cracks, rust or damage, and that it should sit level with the finished floor. It also says "Toilet flanges must sit flush with or slightly above the finished floor," which matters if you have added tile since the last install. A flange that sits low needs a spacer or an extra-thick ring, not a stack of wax rings. If it is cracked or the bolt slots are broken, see our page on how to fix a broken toilet flange.
Check the floor around it too. Soft or stained subfloor means the old toilet was leaking, and our page on why a toilet leaks at the base explains how to trace that.
### Does Phoenix hard water make removal harder?
It can. The City of Phoenix 2025 water quality report shows total hardness of 172 to 302 parts per million (10 to 17.6 grains per gallon) and says hard water can cause scaling on plumbing fixtures such as faucets and showerheads. Expect crusty supply nuts and a shut-off valve that has not moved in years. Turn the valve gently. If it will not close all the way or drips after you turn it, shut off the water at the house's main valve and stop there.
When should you hire a licensed plumber?
Removing a toilet is a fair DIY job if you can lift it or have a helper. Hire a licensed plumber when the shut-off valve will not hold, the flange is cracked, rusted or below the floor, the subfloor is soft, or you find a cast iron drain you are not sure how to work around. HQ Plumbing & Air is licensed and insured and gives free estimates, and we quote an upfront price before starting. If the toilet is already leaking, we offer 24/7 emergency service.
If you are removing the old one to put in a new toilet, our page on what a toilet replacement involves covers what drives the job.